T-One Eurofighter Final Build Review
02-16-2019, 10:55 AM
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntsville,
AL
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
T-One Eurofighter Final Build Review
This turbine jet was purchased from Pacific RC Jets in California. Right out of the box the plane looks really great. Nice finish, good looking decals and details such as molded rivets, however the ugly starts showing through when you start the build. The documentation is either wrong or non-existent. This plane is not for pilots without a lot of building experience. The safety of the build is ultimately the responsibility of the owner/pilot.
1. Just when you thought imported instructions couldn't get any worse you find the manufacturer calling for flap throws of 40mm on a delta wing plane. (Delta wings don't use flaps since it's identical to down elevator). If you set up the Euro to these instructions you're going to be in for a big surprise the first time you lower the flaps and the nose heads straight for the dirt. I have heard of some people cross mixing the canards against the inboard flaps, but I wouldn't want to be the first person to try this. All canards I've flown are difficult to stall and as such slow down nicely for landing.
2. You receive a $180 LED controller that tells you in the instructions that the afterburner function doesn't work. Also be prepared to use a hefty sized 2s lipo for the lights since they leave out the part about the landing gear light function not working. The included controller does not allow you to turn off the high intensity (high current LEDs) when the gear are retracted. You can also expect no help from Pacific RC since your emails pointing out these problems will be ignored by the seller who's attitude is that if you ignore them long enough they'll just go away.
3. You also receive LED wire extensions that have the red and black leads reversed! I burned out two $5 7 gram servos before I removed the extension cable and saw the problems. The lesson learned was NEVER take anything for granted!
4. Expect about a 3mm gap under the vertical stab because it won't fit correctly without major modification. I think it's still strong enough and I will fill this in with spackling after the maiden. The vertical stab has a long internal tube that slides down and forward. In my case the tube was either placed at the wrong angle in the mold or the mold is simply bad.
5. Also be ready to dig out and fix the non-working LEDs. My rudder LED was received broken when they jammed it into the vertical stab and then glued it in with some type of 6 ton epoxy compound! After several hours I dug it out and resoldered the lead back onto the wire.
6. The rudder is under designed. There is about a 4" moment from the control arm to the first small nylon hinge. It's a long rudder with only 3 nylon hinges. The last thing I want to see is the rudder come off during a knife edge. If you use a two arm control it will probably hold up. However unlike what was pictured in the manual mine came with a single arm which was a recipe for disaster. I insisted on using the 2 arm control which I received about 2 months later. I also added a piece of plywood to relieve the stress from the hinge.
7, You receive a ton of hardware with the kit. I had an assortment of about 50 screws left over after the build. Only problem is that 80% of the hardware is either the wrong size or spares. For example: If you use the shortest screws provided for the servo hold downs you're going to push straight up through the top of the wing. I ended up having to order M3 x 6MM Socket Head Cap Screws in order to keep them from pushing through the top. I guess M3 x 6mm cap screws weren't on sale at Banggood when my kit was thrown together! I always get a little nervous when I have a bunch of extra parts left over! :-)
8. I always do a dry fit before bringing out the Hysol. The rear elevon surfaces come with pre-glued hinges. I'm not exactly sure but one of the hinges is either glued in at an angle or the pre-drilled hole in the wing is off center. This causes the lip of the surface to catch on the top wing sheeting and creates a really neat wing thud every time it catches. I've tried using sand paper, but with no results. I guess it will either wear itself in or delaminate the top wing sheeting.
9. I've saved the scariest part for last! I purchased the Y tube pipe in order to keep a scale look. There is a metal doubler folded over the Y junction inside the tube which is spot welded. Another owner warned me to trash the included thrust tube and replace it with another $300 tube made by Tam Jets since his doubler came off after a couple of flights. My concern is that if there is a gap under the metal doubler the exhaust gas is going straight into the rear of the fiberglass fuse if the doubler decides to come off. I discussed this concern with Pacific RC and was told that a lot of people were trashing the included Y pipe and buying the Tam Jets version. I was also told that thin metal is folded under the doubler so that if the metal doubler comes loose there shouldn't be an exhaust leak until the metal burns away. Guess I'll find out when I see the rear of the jet go up in flames mid flight? FYI Dirk (Part owner of Pacific RC Jets) recently had his built using two K70's.
The bottom line is that the owner/pilot is ultimately responsible for building a sound and safe plane. I hope that these comments will be useful for future owners of the T-One Eurofighter!
1. Just when you thought imported instructions couldn't get any worse you find the manufacturer calling for flap throws of 40mm on a delta wing plane. (Delta wings don't use flaps since it's identical to down elevator). If you set up the Euro to these instructions you're going to be in for a big surprise the first time you lower the flaps and the nose heads straight for the dirt. I have heard of some people cross mixing the canards against the inboard flaps, but I wouldn't want to be the first person to try this. All canards I've flown are difficult to stall and as such slow down nicely for landing.
2. You receive a $180 LED controller that tells you in the instructions that the afterburner function doesn't work. Also be prepared to use a hefty sized 2s lipo for the lights since they leave out the part about the landing gear light function not working. The included controller does not allow you to turn off the high intensity (high current LEDs) when the gear are retracted. You can also expect no help from Pacific RC since your emails pointing out these problems will be ignored by the seller who's attitude is that if you ignore them long enough they'll just go away.
3. You also receive LED wire extensions that have the red and black leads reversed! I burned out two $5 7 gram servos before I removed the extension cable and saw the problems. The lesson learned was NEVER take anything for granted!
4. Expect about a 3mm gap under the vertical stab because it won't fit correctly without major modification. I think it's still strong enough and I will fill this in with spackling after the maiden. The vertical stab has a long internal tube that slides down and forward. In my case the tube was either placed at the wrong angle in the mold or the mold is simply bad.
5. Also be ready to dig out and fix the non-working LEDs. My rudder LED was received broken when they jammed it into the vertical stab and then glued it in with some type of 6 ton epoxy compound! After several hours I dug it out and resoldered the lead back onto the wire.
6. The rudder is under designed. There is about a 4" moment from the control arm to the first small nylon hinge. It's a long rudder with only 3 nylon hinges. The last thing I want to see is the rudder come off during a knife edge. If you use a two arm control it will probably hold up. However unlike what was pictured in the manual mine came with a single arm which was a recipe for disaster. I insisted on using the 2 arm control which I received about 2 months later. I also added a piece of plywood to relieve the stress from the hinge.
7, You receive a ton of hardware with the kit. I had an assortment of about 50 screws left over after the build. Only problem is that 80% of the hardware is either the wrong size or spares. For example: If you use the shortest screws provided for the servo hold downs you're going to push straight up through the top of the wing. I ended up having to order M3 x 6MM Socket Head Cap Screws in order to keep them from pushing through the top. I guess M3 x 6mm cap screws weren't on sale at Banggood when my kit was thrown together! I always get a little nervous when I have a bunch of extra parts left over! :-)
8. I always do a dry fit before bringing out the Hysol. The rear elevon surfaces come with pre-glued hinges. I'm not exactly sure but one of the hinges is either glued in at an angle or the pre-drilled hole in the wing is off center. This causes the lip of the surface to catch on the top wing sheeting and creates a really neat wing thud every time it catches. I've tried using sand paper, but with no results. I guess it will either wear itself in or delaminate the top wing sheeting.
9. I've saved the scariest part for last! I purchased the Y tube pipe in order to keep a scale look. There is a metal doubler folded over the Y junction inside the tube which is spot welded. Another owner warned me to trash the included thrust tube and replace it with another $300 tube made by Tam Jets since his doubler came off after a couple of flights. My concern is that if there is a gap under the metal doubler the exhaust gas is going straight into the rear of the fiberglass fuse if the doubler decides to come off. I discussed this concern with Pacific RC and was told that a lot of people were trashing the included Y pipe and buying the Tam Jets version. I was also told that thin metal is folded under the doubler so that if the metal doubler comes loose there shouldn't be an exhaust leak until the metal burns away. Guess I'll find out when I see the rear of the jet go up in flames mid flight? FYI Dirk (Part owner of Pacific RC Jets) recently had his built using two K70's.
The bottom line is that the owner/pilot is ultimately responsible for building a sound and safe plane. I hope that these comments will be useful for future owners of the T-One Eurofighter!
02-16-2019, 01:32 PM
#2
Do your self a favor and never build another jet unless it’s a plug and play if you are having problems with the T-1 euro... it’s a very easy plane to build.
I do do agree the instructions are lacking but it’s not for a first time builder. I did request they remove the flaps setting a while back but I guess that slipped through the cracks.
For the tail I have no clue what you have going on... I built one and have seen 3 and all of them have the tail right.
You are one bitter guy. Btw this is one of the best flying scale planes I have ever flown! Lots of fun. I recommend you stop crying and go fly.
One more thing.... if your having problems with T-1 you are going to have a very hard time with some of the others lol.
I do do agree the instructions are lacking but it’s not for a first time builder. I did request they remove the flaps setting a while back but I guess that slipped through the cracks.
For the tail I have no clue what you have going on... I built one and have seen 3 and all of them have the tail right.
You are one bitter guy. Btw this is one of the best flying scale planes I have ever flown! Lots of fun. I recommend you stop crying and go fly.
One more thing.... if your having problems with T-1 you are going to have a very hard time with some of the others lol.
02-16-2019, 02:40 PM
#3
My Feedback: (53)
This turbine jet was purchased from Pacific RC Jets in California. Right out of the box the plane looks really great. Nice finish, good looking decals and details such as molded rivets, however the ugly starts showing through when you start the build. The documentation is either wrong or non-existent. This plane is not for pilots without a lot of building experience. The safety of the build is ultimately the responsibility of the owner/pilot.
1. Just when you thought imported instructions couldn't get any worse you find the manufacturer calling for flap throws of 40mm on a delta wing plane. (Delta wings don't use flaps since it's identical to down elevator). If you set up the Euro to these instructions you're going to be in for a big surprise the first time you lower the flaps and the nose heads straight for the dirt. I have heard of some people cross mixing the canards against the inboard flaps, but I wouldn't want to be the first person to try this. All canards I've flown are difficult to stall and as such slow down nicely for landing.
2. You receive a $180 LED controller that tells you in the instructions that the afterburner function doesn't work. Also be prepared to use a hefty sized 2s lipo for the lights since they leave out the part about the landing gear light function not working. The included controller does not allow you to turn off the high intensity (high current LEDs) when the gear are retracted. You can also expect no help from Pacific RC since your emails pointing out these problems will be ignored by the seller who's attitude is that if you ignore them long enough they'll just go away.
3. You also receive LED wire extensions that have the red and black leads reversed! I burned out two $5 7 gram servos before I removed the extension cable and saw the problems. The lesson learned was NEVER take anything for granted!
4. Expect about a 3mm gap under the vertical stab because it won't fit correctly without major modification. I think it's still strong enough and I will fill this in with spackling after the maiden. The vertical stab has a long internal tube that slides down and forward. In my case the tube was either placed at the wrong angle in the mold or the mold is simply bad.
5. Also be ready to dig out and fix the non-working LEDs. My rudder LED was received broken when they jammed it into the vertical stab and then glued it in with some type of 6 ton epoxy compound! After several hours I dug it out and resoldered the lead back onto the wire.
6. The rudder is under designed. There is about a 4" moment from the control arm to the first small nylon hinge. It's a long rudder with only 3 nylon hinges. The last thing I want to see is the rudder come off during a knife edge. If you use a two arm control it will probably hold up. However unlike what was pictured in the manual mine came with a single arm which was a recipe for disaster. I insisted on using the 2 arm control which I received about 2 months later. I also added a piece of plywood to relieve the stress from the hinge.
7, You receive a ton of hardware with the kit. I had an assortment of about 50 screws left over after the build. Only problem is that 80% of the hardware is either the wrong size or spares. For example: If you use the shortest screws provided for the servo hold downs you're going to push straight up through the top of the wing. I ended up having to order M3 x 6MM Socket Head Cap Screws in order to keep them from pushing through the top. I guess M3 x 6mm cap screws weren't on sale at Banggood when my kit was thrown together! I always get a little nervous when I have a bunch of extra parts left over! :-)
8. I always do a dry fit before bringing out the Hysol. The rear elevon surfaces come with pre-glued hinges. I'm not exactly sure but one of the hinges is either glued in at an angle or the pre-drilled hole in the wing is off center. This causes the lip of the surface to catch on the top wing sheeting and creates a really neat wing thud every time it catches. I've tried using sand paper, but with no results. I guess it will either wear itself in or delaminate the top wing sheeting.
9. I've saved the scariest part for last! I purchased the Y tube pipe in order to keep a scale look. There is a metal doubler folded over the Y junction inside the tube which is spot welded. Another owner warned me to trash the included thrust tube and replace it with another $300 tube made by Tam Jets since his doubler came off after a couple of flights. My concern is that if there is a gap under the metal doubler the exhaust gas is going straight into the rear of the fiberglass fuse if the doubler decides to come off. I discussed this concern with Pacific RC and was told that a lot of people were trashing the included Y pipe and buying the Tam Jets version. I was also told that thin metal is folded under the doubler so that if the metal doubler comes loose there shouldn't be an exhaust leak until the metal burns away. Guess I'll find out when I see the rear of the jet go up in flames mid flight? FYI Dirk (Part owner of Pacific RC Jets) recently had his built using two K70's.
The bottom line is that the owner/pilot is ultimately responsible for building a sound and safe plane. I hope that these comments will be useful for future owners of the T-One Eurofighter!
1. Just when you thought imported instructions couldn't get any worse you find the manufacturer calling for flap throws of 40mm on a delta wing plane. (Delta wings don't use flaps since it's identical to down elevator). If you set up the Euro to these instructions you're going to be in for a big surprise the first time you lower the flaps and the nose heads straight for the dirt. I have heard of some people cross mixing the canards against the inboard flaps, but I wouldn't want to be the first person to try this. All canards I've flown are difficult to stall and as such slow down nicely for landing.
2. You receive a $180 LED controller that tells you in the instructions that the afterburner function doesn't work. Also be prepared to use a hefty sized 2s lipo for the lights since they leave out the part about the landing gear light function not working. The included controller does not allow you to turn off the high intensity (high current LEDs) when the gear are retracted. You can also expect no help from Pacific RC since your emails pointing out these problems will be ignored by the seller who's attitude is that if you ignore them long enough they'll just go away.
3. You also receive LED wire extensions that have the red and black leads reversed! I burned out two $5 7 gram servos before I removed the extension cable and saw the problems. The lesson learned was NEVER take anything for granted!
4. Expect about a 3mm gap under the vertical stab because it won't fit correctly without major modification. I think it's still strong enough and I will fill this in with spackling after the maiden. The vertical stab has a long internal tube that slides down and forward. In my case the tube was either placed at the wrong angle in the mold or the mold is simply bad.
5. Also be ready to dig out and fix the non-working LEDs. My rudder LED was received broken when they jammed it into the vertical stab and then glued it in with some type of 6 ton epoxy compound! After several hours I dug it out and resoldered the lead back onto the wire.
6. The rudder is under designed. There is about a 4" moment from the control arm to the first small nylon hinge. It's a long rudder with only 3 nylon hinges. The last thing I want to see is the rudder come off during a knife edge. If you use a two arm control it will probably hold up. However unlike what was pictured in the manual mine came with a single arm which was a recipe for disaster. I insisted on using the 2 arm control which I received about 2 months later. I also added a piece of plywood to relieve the stress from the hinge.
7, You receive a ton of hardware with the kit. I had an assortment of about 50 screws left over after the build. Only problem is that 80% of the hardware is either the wrong size or spares. For example: If you use the shortest screws provided for the servo hold downs you're going to push straight up through the top of the wing. I ended up having to order M3 x 6MM Socket Head Cap Screws in order to keep them from pushing through the top. I guess M3 x 6mm cap screws weren't on sale at Banggood when my kit was thrown together! I always get a little nervous when I have a bunch of extra parts left over! :-)
8. I always do a dry fit before bringing out the Hysol. The rear elevon surfaces come with pre-glued hinges. I'm not exactly sure but one of the hinges is either glued in at an angle or the pre-drilled hole in the wing is off center. This causes the lip of the surface to catch on the top wing sheeting and creates a really neat wing thud every time it catches. I've tried using sand paper, but with no results. I guess it will either wear itself in or delaminate the top wing sheeting.
9. I've saved the scariest part for last! I purchased the Y tube pipe in order to keep a scale look. There is a metal doubler folded over the Y junction inside the tube which is spot welded. Another owner warned me to trash the included thrust tube and replace it with another $300 tube made by Tam Jets since his doubler came off after a couple of flights. My concern is that if there is a gap under the metal doubler the exhaust gas is going straight into the rear of the fiberglass fuse if the doubler decides to come off. I discussed this concern with Pacific RC and was told that a lot of people were trashing the included Y pipe and buying the Tam Jets version. I was also told that thin metal is folded under the doubler so that if the metal doubler comes loose there shouldn't be an exhaust leak until the metal burns away. Guess I'll find out when I see the rear of the jet go up in flames mid flight? FYI Dirk (Part owner of Pacific RC Jets) recently had his built using two K70's.
The bottom line is that the owner/pilot is ultimately responsible for building a sound and safe plane. I hope that these comments will be useful for future owners of the T-One Eurofighter!
02-16-2019, 03:17 PM
#4
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntsville,
AL
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gun,
Aren't you the same person that told me about the Y-Pipe doubler coming loose? I'm really glad that your stab dropped in, unlike mine, but apparently whoever setup the form put the carbon tube at the wrong angle. In order to get mine to fit like yours I would have to cut off about 3 mm from the front edge of the stab to move it forward and down. Given that it will hold with the gap I'm going to spackle it after the maiden.
I've built all sorts of models ranging from self designed scratch models and builder kits like the Topflight Corsair to 700 sized heli's for 50 years now. I've bagged them, fiberglassed them, painted them but must say I'd rather be flying than building or dealing with the T-One ARF mess that they sent me. :-) I like delta's and haven't found one yet that didn't fly great. I'm hoping this won't be the exception.
Fred
Aren't you the same person that told me about the Y-Pipe doubler coming loose? I'm really glad that your stab dropped in, unlike mine, but apparently whoever setup the form put the carbon tube at the wrong angle. In order to get mine to fit like yours I would have to cut off about 3 mm from the front edge of the stab to move it forward and down. Given that it will hold with the gap I'm going to spackle it after the maiden.
I've built all sorts of models ranging from self designed scratch models and builder kits like the Topflight Corsair to 700 sized heli's for 50 years now. I've bagged them, fiberglassed them, painted them but must say I'd rather be flying than building or dealing with the T-One ARF mess that they sent me. :-) I like delta's and haven't found one yet that didn't fly great. I'm hoping this won't be the exception.
Fred
02-16-2019, 04:44 PM
#7
Must be "bash PacificRC week." I have called Dirk in the past, left a message and he has called me back on Sundays. Where else do you get that level of response?
Dropping the monkey on someone's back via email or a forum is not a good way to address issues. Except for Facebook, which is total poison, using email to resolve problems is the worst way to go. Use the phone. But think about what you are going to say before the call. Then make the call. Then maybe follow-up with email and pics, etc.
Also, you may want to consider that these guys are stuck with what the factory ships out the door and they are not factory employees and they not are able to be in their face, and your issue is most-often a surprise to them too. Lastly, it takes some time to iron out some of these problems. But overall, the PacificRC guys are great.
Bottom Line: If you want a resolution to something with Dirk, you need to call him and discuss things in a professional manner. If you do that, most folks get great results
Dropping the monkey on someone's back via email or a forum is not a good way to address issues. Except for Facebook, which is total poison, using email to resolve problems is the worst way to go. Use the phone. But think about what you are going to say before the call. Then make the call. Then maybe follow-up with email and pics, etc.
Also, you may want to consider that these guys are stuck with what the factory ships out the door and they are not factory employees and they not are able to be in their face, and your issue is most-often a surprise to them too. Lastly, it takes some time to iron out some of these problems. But overall, the PacificRC guys are great.
Bottom Line: If you want a resolution to something with Dirk, you need to call him and discuss things in a professional manner. If you do that, most folks get great results
02-16-2019, 07:35 PM
#9
Well I guess that answered my question if this was his first Asian ARF. I’m moving to Huntsville in July and I will steer clear of this guy. I’m sure we all wish we could have all these giant scale models made here in the US.
Last edited by FenderBean; 02-16-2019 at 07:42 PM.
02-16-2019, 09:04 PM
#11
Dude you're are obviously a tool trying to start something, my name is Keith Davis so yes feel free to stay clear of me. You start a supposed "build review" and in the first post you just post a few pictures of what you consider bad and if you knew anything about these jets you would know its common. You have no street cred with jet guys per say and you want us, the people who have bought from, hung out with and flown with are bad people when we have known them for years? Yes please do us all a favor and don't ever buy a jet again or feel free to buy BVMs jet since you think they are perfect which FYI other than a couple are also built in Asian now. You are just a typical forum troll posting the same thread on all the major RC forums expecting people to believe you're telling the truth because you got butt hurt over something someone said. As yes please feel free to post your name or come visit me when I come fly at the field in Huntsville so I can learn who not to ever sale a Jets Munt Turbine or anything else for that matter. Man never seems to amaze me how childish some adults can be over something that is suppose to be a fun, we get it trust me, we have all been annoyed with these kits but to call people names is just childish.
02-16-2019, 10:47 PM
#14
I don’t really care what you think of me and I didn’t egg you on I asked a simple question and you throw insults out like a child. Nothing wrong with giving a review and showing ugly things, I have done plenty but I give the good, the bad and the ugly in all my builds with the intent on helping and educating people who maybe interested in the same products. Your post had no point other than to bash for no good reason.
Cannot believe I let myself get wrapped up in one of these post
Cannot believe I let myself get wrapped up in one of these post
Last edited by FenderBean; 02-16-2019 at 10:56 PM.
02-17-2019, 05:27 AM
#15
Cleaned up, if your post disappeared it may have quoted something I deleted.
As I said yesterday, if you have an issue with a product, present it in a factual manner and its fine. Discuss it calmly, thats fine.
Start name calling and ranting and you will end up in the penalty box. If you see something that excites you, resist the urge to continue the fight, report the post, or walk away. JD and I are in these jet forums every day, believe me one of us will see it and deal with it.
Leaving this one open (for now) for reasoned discussion.
As I said yesterday, if you have an issue with a product, present it in a factual manner and its fine. Discuss it calmly, thats fine.
Start name calling and ranting and you will end up in the penalty box. If you see something that excites you, resist the urge to continue the fight, report the post, or walk away. JD and I are in these jet forums every day, believe me one of us will see it and deal with it.
Leaving this one open (for now) for reasoned discussion.
02-17-2019, 08:11 AM
#16
All the OP’s findings seem pretty much par for the course with pretty much every single kit I’ve bought and built.
Even BV’s stuff has had issues I’ve come across.
And like many here, I’ve built and flown quite a few of many, if not most, of the manufacturers out there.
Do we wish every jet we bought was perfect? Ofcourse! But that is just not the reality.
Even BV’s stuff has had issues I’ve come across.
And like many here, I’ve built and flown quite a few of many, if not most, of the manufacturers out there.
Do we wish every jet we bought was perfect? Ofcourse! But that is just not the reality.
02-17-2019, 11:27 AM
#17
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ch-US-Monopoly
I dont think we were unfair after seeing this a few minutes ago. Anyway i want post anymore I too cant wait for the wx to warm up, last weekend it was 20 degrees and then a few days later it was 88 and next it was 30! wx whiplash!
I dont think we were unfair after seeing this a few minutes ago. Anyway i want post anymore I too cant wait for the wx to warm up, last weekend it was 20 degrees and then a few days later it was 88 and next it was 30! wx whiplash!
02-17-2019, 03:57 PM
#19
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntsville,
AL
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't like censorship and insults, but that unfortunately is the case when it comes to the internet. Anonymity and a keyboard are a dangerous combination. That being said I'd like to try and set the history of this sad story straight...
All of the posted replies to my original review have mainly been about bashing me, my credibility, etc. Like Dirk and others have said: There are two sides to a story.
I'm not going over the entire history again. I'll just say this entire sorry saga began over political and IMHO racists posts on FB by Barry. I thought it was a "Kingtech" business page since it had "Kingtech" in the title of the page. I have since been told that it was his personal page. Still bad business IMHO.
Once you buy a Kingtech turbine you're subject to the Kingtech rules. 25 hour service, using their oil, etc. I agreed to this when I bought the turbines. I will however not be held hostage and will not withhold my opinion out of fear that they will no longer service my turbines and not sell me oil. As it turns out this is now the case. Kingtech cancelled my oil order from last night and Dirk stated he will no longer service my turbines because of our political disagreements.
The T-One Eurofighter problem started when I started assembling the kit. The finish looks great, however parts like the vertical stab and fuse simply do not fit together properly. As best I can tell this is because the angled carbon rod in the stab was not placed at the correct angle in the mold. This initially wasn't a big deal since I intended to fill in the gaps and paint it. Then came the ridiculous light controller that I paid $180 for. I asked Dirk over the phone and followed up in emails asking for a working light controller which they now have. Dirk ignored my requests, he lied about not receiving the emails and twisted my words and the problem festered to the point where I had enough and called him out. A heated phone conversation happened and that's when the posts pointing out what I felt were legitimate problems with the jet were made.
I'm not making this stuff up. Why would I? I don't have a competing business. I have nothing to gain financially from their demise. I also didn't tell Dirk to dissolve his business relationship with Barry. Their business relationship is none of my business and I couldn't care less who partners with who. So, when Dirk makes this statement it's an outright falsehood and ridiculous.
Dirk has been nice to me before and during my purchases from him. The problem began when he refused to listen and act upon polite, business like requests to remedy the problem with the LED controller.
Ok, I play nice and make multiple requests for legit problems and I'm ignored. What other solution do I have? I also admit I got mad and did what I could to get their attention to remedy the problem since the playing nice wasn't working. The more I was ignored the madder I got.
I've been flying, designing and building all types of models including heli's, and planes for 50 years now. I am a new turbine waiver holder (about 8 months now). So please don't start the insults about how I don't know how to put together an ARF. I also worked at NASA, Marshall Space Flight Center here in Huntsville, AL as a scientist/engineer for 30 years so I'm not exactly clueless about technical matters. (Please feel free to flame me about that also). If you want to see some pretty pictures I took from my backyard observatory or want to read one of my books please visit: https://www.facebook.com/OwlMountainObservatory or
http://www.owlmountainobservatory.org
Plain and simple: I don't care where something is made or how much I paid for it. What I expect is that I get what I paid for. In this case it was a stupid LED controller. So keep on flaming away, reporting my posts, etc. I really like to think that I'm a reasonable person and that I'm easy to get along with as long as I'm treated fairly.
All of the posted replies to my original review have mainly been about bashing me, my credibility, etc. Like Dirk and others have said: There are two sides to a story.
I'm not going over the entire history again. I'll just say this entire sorry saga began over political and IMHO racists posts on FB by Barry. I thought it was a "Kingtech" business page since it had "Kingtech" in the title of the page. I have since been told that it was his personal page. Still bad business IMHO.
Once you buy a Kingtech turbine you're subject to the Kingtech rules. 25 hour service, using their oil, etc. I agreed to this when I bought the turbines. I will however not be held hostage and will not withhold my opinion out of fear that they will no longer service my turbines and not sell me oil. As it turns out this is now the case. Kingtech cancelled my oil order from last night and Dirk stated he will no longer service my turbines because of our political disagreements.
The T-One Eurofighter problem started when I started assembling the kit. The finish looks great, however parts like the vertical stab and fuse simply do not fit together properly. As best I can tell this is because the angled carbon rod in the stab was not placed at the correct angle in the mold. This initially wasn't a big deal since I intended to fill in the gaps and paint it. Then came the ridiculous light controller that I paid $180 for. I asked Dirk over the phone and followed up in emails asking for a working light controller which they now have. Dirk ignored my requests, he lied about not receiving the emails and twisted my words and the problem festered to the point where I had enough and called him out. A heated phone conversation happened and that's when the posts pointing out what I felt were legitimate problems with the jet were made.
I'm not making this stuff up. Why would I? I don't have a competing business. I have nothing to gain financially from their demise. I also didn't tell Dirk to dissolve his business relationship with Barry. Their business relationship is none of my business and I couldn't care less who partners with who. So, when Dirk makes this statement it's an outright falsehood and ridiculous.
Dirk has been nice to me before and during my purchases from him. The problem began when he refused to listen and act upon polite, business like requests to remedy the problem with the LED controller.
Ok, I play nice and make multiple requests for legit problems and I'm ignored. What other solution do I have? I also admit I got mad and did what I could to get their attention to remedy the problem since the playing nice wasn't working. The more I was ignored the madder I got.
I've been flying, designing and building all types of models including heli's, and planes for 50 years now. I am a new turbine waiver holder (about 8 months now). So please don't start the insults about how I don't know how to put together an ARF. I also worked at NASA, Marshall Space Flight Center here in Huntsville, AL as a scientist/engineer for 30 years so I'm not exactly clueless about technical matters. (Please feel free to flame me about that also). If you want to see some pretty pictures I took from my backyard observatory or want to read one of my books please visit: https://www.facebook.com/OwlMountainObservatory or
http://www.owlmountainobservatory.org
Plain and simple: I don't care where something is made or how much I paid for it. What I expect is that I get what I paid for. In this case it was a stupid LED controller. So keep on flaming away, reporting my posts, etc. I really like to think that I'm a reasonable person and that I'm easy to get along with as long as I'm treated fairly.
02-17-2019, 04:56 PM
#20
On my T-One, I too had a bad experience with the Nav LEDs. I sent Dirk a couple emails when I was trying to get them to work. Dirk sent me pics on how to get the landing light controller to work. The rest of the issues required me to order some replacement LEDs as the LED's themselves were bad. I got the lights to light, but I still could not get the controller to work correctly. So I called Dirk and he refunded my $s for the entire Nav Light system. I sent the OEM's parts I had remaining back to him. The refund came thru before the parts even got back to him. I call this excellent service, in spite of the OEM supplier's bad design.
From my experience, it appeared to me that Dirk did not know how to set up the controller to make it work correctly. I say this because, as designed, there was no way to make it work correctly. However, at Dirk's expense, someone took the parts and set the landing light up on the bench, figured out how to make the landing lights work, took pics and annotated them. It took a couple days, but he followed up and got the instructions to me. Unfortunately, the manufacture had used a system with control components in the harnesses and then tried to get them to also work with the controller. So, while we could get the landing light to work, the rest of them did not work correctly. Also, I had purchased some unharnessed LEDs to replace the ones that were just burned out. I put them on the end of the OEM's harnesses and they worked, but I could not get them to strobe or flash. After days of frogging around, I never could get that system to work correctly. I admit it was frustrating during the troubleshooting process as this was my first crack at Nav Lights
Point being: The system did not work from the factory. Dirk tried to help me. We still could not get them to work correctly. So Dirk took the steps necessary to refund my money. Dirk also told me that he was looking at other options for Nav Lights. Overall, I am not sure where I have had better service thru such an issue. And, I have had other issues with a lot of these jet projects. Although, I must say my T-One was perfect, except for the Nav Lights.
One of the personal strategies to remember here: Unless the product has been around a couple years, we are the Beta Testers! I am convinced of that. If you can't handle being a Beta Tester, then stick to products that have been around a couple years. Before I buy anything, I make a conscious decision if I am will or not to be the Beta Tester. If I am not, then I do without or find something that has been around a while. If I am willing, then I remind myself that there is no *****in' allowed!
ftherrmann : As far as your continued unprofessional bashing, it is simply uncalled for. If I was in business selling this stuff, I too would have cut you off. Maybe the good thing here is: someone might learn from other's mistakes! Wise up! Facebook is poison!
From my experience, it appeared to me that Dirk did not know how to set up the controller to make it work correctly. I say this because, as designed, there was no way to make it work correctly. However, at Dirk's expense, someone took the parts and set the landing light up on the bench, figured out how to make the landing lights work, took pics and annotated them. It took a couple days, but he followed up and got the instructions to me. Unfortunately, the manufacture had used a system with control components in the harnesses and then tried to get them to also work with the controller. So, while we could get the landing light to work, the rest of them did not work correctly. Also, I had purchased some unharnessed LEDs to replace the ones that were just burned out. I put them on the end of the OEM's harnesses and they worked, but I could not get them to strobe or flash. After days of frogging around, I never could get that system to work correctly. I admit it was frustrating during the troubleshooting process as this was my first crack at Nav Lights
Point being: The system did not work from the factory. Dirk tried to help me. We still could not get them to work correctly. So Dirk took the steps necessary to refund my money. Dirk also told me that he was looking at other options for Nav Lights. Overall, I am not sure where I have had better service thru such an issue. And, I have had other issues with a lot of these jet projects. Although, I must say my T-One was perfect, except for the Nav Lights.
One of the personal strategies to remember here: Unless the product has been around a couple years, we are the Beta Testers! I am convinced of that. If you can't handle being a Beta Tester, then stick to products that have been around a couple years. Before I buy anything, I make a conscious decision if I am will or not to be the Beta Tester. If I am not, then I do without or find something that has been around a while. If I am willing, then I remind myself that there is no *****in' allowed!
ftherrmann : As far as your continued unprofessional bashing, it is simply uncalled for. If I was in business selling this stuff, I too would have cut you off. Maybe the good thing here is: someone might learn from other's mistakes! Wise up! Facebook is poison!
Last edited by Len Todd; 02-17-2019 at 05:00 PM.
hehe
02-17-2019, 08:14 PM
#22
"Kingtech cancelled my oil order from last night and Dirk stated he will no longer service my turbines because of our political disagreements."
LOL, I don't care if you were the son of Nancy Pelosi that wants to fly a KingTech, not only I'll sell him an engine, I'll make sure that son of beep enjoys his KingTech just like everyone else.
LOL, I don't care if you were the son of Nancy Pelosi that wants to fly a KingTech, not only I'll sell him an engine, I'll make sure that son of beep enjoys his KingTech just like everyone else.
02-17-2019, 09:51 PM
#23
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Huntsville,
AL
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dear Barry,
If you'll sell me a new turbine why won't you sell me the oil to go with it? You did say in your email that "you and Dirk had decided to terminate the business relationship".
The truce offer is still on the table. Why not kiss a snowflake and make up?
XOXO lol, lol, lol
Freddy
If you'll sell me a new turbine why won't you sell me the oil to go with it? You did say in your email that "you and Dirk had decided to terminate the business relationship".
The truce offer is still on the table. Why not kiss a snowflake and make up?
XOXO lol, lol, lol
Freddy
02-18-2019, 03:58 AM
#25
Dear Barry,
If you'll sell me a new turbine why won't you sell me the oil to go with it? You did say in your email that "you and Dirk had decided to terminate the business relationship".
The truce offer is still on the table. Why not kiss a snowflake and make up?
XOXO lol, lol, lol
Freddy
If you'll sell me a new turbine why won't you sell me the oil to go with it? You did say in your email that "you and Dirk had decided to terminate the business relationship".
The truce offer is still on the table. Why not kiss a snowflake and make up?
XOXO lol, lol, lol
Freddy
Second on all Barry and a chemist came up with the custom blend of oil for our engines not kingtech. So when you buy oil it’s from Barry and last time I checked he can choose who he does business with in a free market place.
You messed up. You know the saying you should never shi* where you eat. Flying RC jets is a hobby and politics have no place here .